So....
I have made a decision to pause my journey along The County Way — one advantage of a virtual tour. Only for a couple of days
Anyone living in our neck of the woods knows that the weather has been anything but spring-like for the last few days. I’m okay with cooler temperatures but it’s the rain/snow and wind that just make anything other than a short hike unbearable.
Yes, I know that if I was on the “real” Way there would be no choice but to forge ahead — again another advantage of a virtual tour.
The other reason is that some of the locations that I wanted to visit are opening this week allowing visitors to use the trails, etc. as long as you adhere to the physical distancing guidelines. I really want to blog about these locations having actually experienced them as part of the County Way adventure.
Today (Monday May 11th) would have been the final day on the West Highland Way with tomorrow being the optional climb to the top of Ben Nevis. I am going to hit “unpause” and complete these final legs soon.
The Devil's Staircase Photo credit: William Janssen
The official itinerary:
Sunday May 10 – Day 6 – Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Distance = 14.5km. Total Ascent = 425m
Today’s hike provides some spectacular walking across inspiring mountainous terrain. The Devil’s Staircase awaits – a zig zag climb up to the highest point of the West Highland Way (548m) where the mountainous views are stunning. On a clear day, you may even be able to see Ben Nevis (1344m), the highest Munro and our final challenge on the last day. After a gentle meander across the moorland, we’ll head down to Kinlochleven where a warm friendly welcome awaits us at a small family run guest house.
Today was to be a challenging day with the climbing of The Devil's Staircase.
Ben Nevis Photo credit: Jim McGeachan
My intended location for today's County Way is currently closed.
Try as I may, I just couldn't come up with an equivalent here close to home. I have decided it doesn't really matter today because today is Mother's Day.
This day was intended to be a time to take a moment to stop and appreciate the women in our lives that have nurtured us along our "way".
I have many in my life but of course there is one in particular that I celebrate and appreciate today. My mom, Rita whose maiden name is McIntyre. My Scottish connection for this day.
Homemade apple fritters
My husband and I did a "porch" visit with her dropping off treats and a handmade card -- I actually used construction paper and crayons.
I must say my drawing skills haven't improved much since I was a kid. I'm not sure she realized that orange "thing" was intended to be a Monarch butterfly.
Oh well, it's the thought that counts.
Since the County Stairway was off the table, my day (as seems to be the habit) became all about food.
I had made a batch of fritters in the morning but I felt that in honour of Mother's Day I could do something a little more formal -- afternoon tea.
A very British thing to do.
Okay so I opted for something other than tea for my beverage of choice.
I finished it off with one of the blueberry scones I had made the other day. They freeze really well. Good thing otherwise there wouldn't have been any let for today's "Tea".
With all these tasty morsels tucked away I needed to get out and at least move a little bit. We took Burghley across to the farm where a friend of ours happened to be walking his four ( yes, I said four!) Basset hounds.
We have invited friends with dogs to come here -- maintaining physical distancing, of course. It gives their dogs a chance to have a good run.
Burghley has been trying his herding skills out on them. I give him "A" for his effort.
Music Credit: Eddi Reader "Comin' Through The Rye" from the album The Songs Of Robert Burns
Saturday May 9 – Day 5 – Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse
Distance = 19km. Total Ascent = 202m
Today offers a glimpse into the wild and remote as we trek through one of the last great wildernesses of Europe. The Way follows a track that climbs gently past some plantations and then out onto Rannock Moor, a section considered to be the remotest and wildest of the whole Way. On a good day the walking is relatively straightforward but if the weather is bad, the elements can make for a challenging going across this exposed moor. Bleak and beautiful at the same time … it all depends on the conditions! As the path descends from the moor to join the road again, we can catch a view of one of Scotland’s most photographed mountains, Buachaille Etive Mor. We plan to rest in Kings House Hotel, a hotel that dates from the 17th century that was originally used as barracks for George 3rd’s troops.
It was to be a day that could present some challenges if the weather was bad on the Rannock Moor. By the look of it though today would have been one of those “bleak and beautiful” days.
Not so much here.
The sun was short lived. The morning sky quickly turned overcast with, dare I say, flurries. It was a day that would leave you "chittering". No matter, the task at hand was again to discover the "Scottish" in the County. To that end, I set off on my bicycle in search of the County Way.
I am certain there are many bridges along the West Highland Way but during the last two days of the journey two are specifically mentioned.
The Bridge of Orchy, pictured above, was to be our end of day yesterday and our starting point this morning in the official schedule.
Today's route would have taken us to the Ba bridge which funnily enough takes you across the River Ba. 😃
Ba Bridge Photo Credit: Lorie K. Risner
When I was preparing for this part of the journey I knew immediately where to find my County bridge.
I had intended to do this part of the County Way on my bike so despite the chilly and windy conditions I resisted the urge to hop in my car and set out pedaling into a headwind....
wearing a toque, mittens, fleece lined wind pants and several layers on top. It was so worth the effort.
This is a dry stacked stone bridge located in the back vineyard area of Karlo Estates Winery. It is beautiful, especially this time of year because the creek is at it’s highest with spring rains.
The weather didn’t improve much as the day progressed but if I was hiking The Way in Scotland the journey would continue.
Mother Nature certainly seemed to have her seasons confused. My Canadian and Scottish roots mean I'm a hardy soul...my hubby too, even though he wasn't looking amused in this video clip. He felt much better after his cup of hot chocolate.
These poor blooms were probably wondering what hit them.
The King's House Hotel was where we were to rest our weary bones after our trek across Rannock Moor.
Our farm is home to an old residence that dates back to sometime between 1840 and 1850. The property itself was part of a Loyalist Land Grant in 1804.
I think it has some characteristics similar to the King's House.
It has been boarded up for quite sometime so not a place you would want to spend the night. I don't even want to know what creatures might be sharing your room if you did. Yike's
Total Distance: 14 kms cycling 5.5 km hiking 8105 steps Here is some extra footage of my search for the County Way Bridge. Completely by coincidence the song in the video is Granted by Josh Groban from his album...wait for it.... Bridges!
Friday May 8 – Day 4 – Inverarnan to Bridge of Orchy
Distance = 30.3km (19.3km + 11km), Total Ascent = 490m
A day of soaring mountains and gentle glen walking, today is long but rewarding. Following the attractive River Falloch, we’ll skirt past the village of Crianlarich to join an old military road into the town of Tyndrum. We’ll continue our route into the hamlet of Bridge of Orchy with lovely views of Beinn Odhar and Beinn Dorain accompanying us all the way. This section of the hike can be done by foot or, for those who desire, by taxi. The path and tracks are straightforward but being our longest day, some may wish to do the last 11km from Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy by transport. This is totally optional. We’ll unwind in the bar “alongside a roaring fireplace and a prime selection of craft beers and malt whiskies.”
I selected the picture above of Beinn Odhar, a Scottish mountain that is situated at the northern extremity of Loch Lomond, because of the highland cow in the foreground.
As you may remember from one of the previous posts I mentioned how much I love that particular breed of cattle in a "I would love one as a pet" way.
This afternoon when I was baking the apron I was wearing reminded me again of how much I love a wee highland coo.
It was then I realized my obsession "cough".... love of these creatures was no longer a private thing.
Oh and don't forget the frig magnet. All gifts and all very much cherished. ❤
This was the longest day in terms of distance on the West Highland Way but ended up being my shortest day so far on The County Way.
The weather here has been less than spring-like, unlike what they have been experiencing along the route of the West Highland Way.
Okay, so we had sunshine but boy was it cold. It continues to be cold with an expected wind chill overnight of minus 9 C.
It is May, right?
To the back of the farm we headed for a walk with Burghley and to satisfy ourselves that spring truly had sprung.
We even spied some turkey hens. They would be out searching for nesting sites right about now. Another sure sign of spring.
That's a relief.
Unlike this leg of the West Highland Way, there are no "soaring mountains" on our farm. There are, however, beautiful wooded areas and what might be considered "gentle glens" for walking and we did, covering 5 kms.
Much like yesterday I struggled to find specific features in our small corner of the County that would connect with the day's official itineray. And just like yesterday, I fell back to what has become my go to during this unsettling moment in time -- baking.
I tied my highland coo apron on and set to work on a recipe that I think actually connects to two Scottish staples. It is variation on the traditional shortbread.
I love the toasted oats. It makes it a bit like a cross between shortbread and oat cakes. Lovely on it's own with a cup of tea or as an accompaniment to some sharp cheddar cheese.
So it wasn't a day of making the "Ways" connect but I will continue the pursuit of all things Scottish again tomorrow.
I nearly forgot...
I changed up my afternoon libation today. Instead of an Old Fashioned I opted for this very tasty Ontario craft beer.
Ah Ha! A connection! (you may have to go back to the top to the official itinerary to get the connection 😄) I really did try. Don't the clouds in the north look like mountains?
Thursday May 7 – Day 3 – Rowardennan to Inverarnan
Distance = 22.5km, Total Ascent = 410m
Today we’ll head north into the more remote section of Loch Lomond where the wilderness and the soaring mountains will really become noticeable. After the Inversnaid Falls and the town itself, the route becomes more challenging as the path twists and turns around large boulders and tree roots. On arrival at Inverarnan, we’ll head to the country pub to raise a glass and drink a few at the renowned Drovers Inn where “real good Scottish hospitality awaits”.
Today's official itinerary included the opportunity to view the Inversnaid Falls.
Here in the County the only waterfalls we have are seasonal. The spring run-off determines how long they will flow and with what intensity.
Cape Vesey Falls Photo Credit: Sarah J. McCabe
Jackson Falls Photo Credit: Sarah J. McCabe
Most years there is sufficient water to make them impressive enough that the local Rotary Club hosts an organized tour that attracts over a 1000 visitors. It is part of their fundraising for international clean water projects.
Like many events this spring it was cancelled due to Covid-19. So I won't be visiting the sites either.
That was my connection for the day. 😞
What to do, what to do?
Well when Covid gives you the blues, make blueberry scones! There's my connection. And a very yummy one to boot.
This day would have ended at a favourite gathering spot for travellers along the Way; The Drovers Inn.
If I had decided to go on this trip last year I would have celebrated my 60th birthday here.
Speaking of birthdays......
I received an early birthday present this week. It is a GoPro camera and today I had an opportunity to try it out.
Burghley and I took video during my training run this afternoon at the farm. I thought it would be a neat way for anyone who might not have been to our farm to get a sense of the terrain we have been using for physical activity during our physical distancing and now as my substitute for the West Highland Way.
I have attached a link to my YouTube channel so you can view it. You might recognize the music. I stole it from the video I linked in my first post showing parts of the real Way....Eddi Reader singing "Brose and Butter" from the album Songs of Robert Burns.
Burghley found cows today....not highland coos but he didn't seem to care.
My workout reward libation.
Yes, I know, it's Irish but as with yesterday's bourbon it is just another take on Scotch. I think this actually belongs to my brother Michael. He has a stash here.....or at least he did. 😃 Total distance: 9.86 km. 11,661 steps Today's weather:
P.S. Last night I posted a picture of the beautiful Super Moon on Instagram. My cousin who lives "across the pond" in England commented on it saying they too had viewed it. Tonight when I was again admiring it it dawned on me that it was another connection to Scotland. According to the weather it is probably clear enough to be seen in the night sky in Inverarnan.
We are all connected. ❤
